With Celtic revival all around us, more and more we hear of Medieval Banquets, physical re-enactments of "The Merry Days of Olde" and their dining habits. Unfortunately, these seemingly merry days of olde, were actually quite the extreme opposite.
Historians consider the one thousand years between A.D. 400 and 1400 as the Middle Ages. During the Middle Ages, Europe's population consisted of many different groups of Germanic peoples. Early tribes included the Franks, Burgundians, Goths, Visigoths, and the Vandals. Early medieval life was a integration of Christianity, Greco-Roman tradition, and the more prominent spirituality of the Celtic-Germanic peoples.
Within these beliefs nature was held most sacred and humanity was considered an insignificant part of the existing universe. Astrology was an important part of the Dark Ages, for people believed each part of the human body was ruled by an astrological sign. During this time, Astrology was still studied with the consent of the Church. Eventually, to however, as the word of God spread, historical fact shows us that fear and suspicion, along with a search for all encompassing power, drove Christianity to brutal and ruthless tactics of persuasion.
These were no easy times, the "Holy" Crusades were killing millions and tearing families apart. Crusading Christians traveled to the Holy Land to claim power over the infidels...or Muslims. Millions died, their villages ransacked and temples in ruin. The Bubonic Plague also took its toll, wiping out one fourth of the population of Europe. These were grim and frightening times, so the people of the medieval period forgot their troubles, at least for awhile, by immersing themselves in food and drink.
Feasting was a joyous event, a time for merriment and song. The people of the Middle Ages also enjoyed story telling, most of them dealing with warring heroes or the lives of the Saints or religious figures. Although the medieval period is often described as the Dark Ages, great strides were made in Science, Art and Religion. However, the onslaught of Christianity also obliterated many valuable stores of information such as the remains of the Great Alexandrian Library...once the culmination of the works of the ancient world's brightest minds.
For obvious reasons, todays public seems to be attracted to the celebration and style of these historical banquets. During this period, dinner time was often a celebration and an excuse to really let loose.
With summer approaching, many families take every opportunity to gather and celebrate with food. Food is magical, it can bring families together in times of despair, and also serves as a centerpiece at weddings and reunions. But mostly, it's a reason to gather.
Food can identify a culture with great accuracy. Medieval England's splendid cookery has long been documented, food habits, table manners and descriptions of feasts are available in great detail.
Although there is ample information on medieval food, the largest recipe collections remaining are from the late fourteenth and fifteenth centuries. In this period, religion and food were deeply intertwined. Until the thirteenth century, the Church had forbidden adults to partake of four-footed flesh, three days a week and also required fasting periods of one or more days. As we entered the fifteenth century, the rules gradually relaxed, but Fridays continued to be Fasting Day or Fysshe Day. Rogation Days, Advent, and Lent were always honored...all meat, eggs and dairy foods were banned for six weeks. Throughout medieval times the diets of the rich and the poor were of great extremes. The wealthy and their households ate very well, while the less fortunate often suffered from various degrees of starvation. During winter, many commoners were often subjected to a constsnt diet of salted or pickled foods.
During these days of King and Queens, Romance Feasts were often celebrated. One of the main feasts being New Year's Day. New Year's Day was as religious as it was joyous. Merriment and gift-giving were the order of the day. However, it was a very formal occasion, a king and his knights would make their entrance immediately after prayer at the chapel. After washing their hands, they'd take their designated seats at the High Table (it actually was elevated higher than the rest). The Queen's chair was canopied and located at the center of the High Table. Only the King and Queen and the most revered knights were seated at the high table...and served double portions of food. Before indulgence, the king and his knights first conversed, telling great stories of adventure. Then, as the first course was announced by trumpets, complete with hanging banners, various dishes of many exotic foods were served. Inside the castle, beer, wine and food were plentiful.
The preparations for the feasts were started early in the day, the gold and pewter were polished and the best Damask linen cloths were laid over the high table. Behind and above the lord's chair, his beautifully embroidered Cloth of Estate was placed. Minstrels announced the meal and after prayer and salutations, the lord's every dish and drink were first tasted by servants, in case of poisoning, before he partook.
Medieval English cookery consisted of exotic animals, fish and birds, enhanced by rare imported spices and herbs. The three most important aspects of medieval cooking being the ingredients, preparation and decoration. Distinguished medieval cooking techniques emphasized food textures, while contrasts between sweet and sour were highly pronounced.
Herbs and spices were abundant in medieval cookery. Spices were a status of wealth. The rich often had gardens of fragrant herbs, such as Basil, Borage, Mallow, Dittany, Oregano, Fennel, Clove, Pennyroyal, Sandalwood and Cinnamon. These herbs were not only utilized in sauces and stuffings, but also in pies, breads, ciders, ales, wines and juices. Herbs were also widely used in medicine.
Cinnamon was commonly used in medieval cooking. Cinnamon was used in pies, beefsteak, fish and wine recipes alike. Odd, but in most medieval recipes, there is never any clue given as to measurements...although they often warned of over-spicing.
In the fifteenth century, sugar and honey had various forms and uses. Sugar was imported and sold in many types...black, white, brown, Indian or Alexandrian, and in many forms...powdered, block, crystalline or Sugar Candy. When sugar quantities were scarce, honey was substituted. Honey was abundant, it could be made in domestic hives and therefore was the sweetener of choice.
Most medieval manuals do not contain many recipes for vegetables and fruits. It was also frowned upon to eat vegetables or fruit raw, therefore soups and stews were quite common. Flowers and nuts were also frequently used in medieval recipes. Walnuts, Chestnuts and Filberts were often included. However, almonds stold the show, about one third of all medieval court recipes included almonds, whether they're slivered, crushed, ground, broiled or roasted. Almonds also formed the basis of one of the most significant condiments in medieval cookery...Almond Milk.
Art and color were always incorporated into medieval fare. Appearance was of great importance. Food painting was quite popular. If a dish lacked a bright appealing hue, Parsley, would color it green, Red Saunders (sandalwood) or Red Turnsole would color it red or Saffron could make it amber. Natural dyes were added for brilliant color. Flowers or herbs were boiled in a white wine solution, to keep their colors dazzling. Shades of blue were attained by the use of Turnsole or Heliotrope. Violets tinted foods purple. And, yellow or gold was created with Saffron, Dandelion and Egg Yolk. The food, although colorful, was not the outstanding feature of the feast...the entertainment and a subtlety stole center stage. Illusion foods, such as a subtlety, were created from sculptured sugar or pastry, and constructed in several tiers. These elaborate sculptures were always paraded...and at the end of each course, individual tiers presented to the High Table. Despite the emphasis on appearance and illusion, these sculpted and painted foods were indeed meant to be eaten, and were served as appetizers between the many courses. Often after dinner, a portable stage or some scenery might be wheeled into the main hall, and a play performed, either by the lord's own troupe or a group of traveling players.
To lift spirits, most medieval people drank heavily. The common drink at every meal was ale, the older and clearer the brew, the more expensive its cost. Ale might be flavored with multiple herbs, as the Germans made it, or perhaps the popular expensive honeyed and spiced ale called Bragot would be served. Wine was very popular, although it was usually mixed with water. A favorite honey wine called Mead was favored and is commonly enjoyed at today's medieval banquets. At feasts it was generally the rule to drink to excess, whether it be a small parish get-together or a grand occasion. Drunkenness was commonplace, especially from Christmas until Twelfth Night. The doctor or local wise woman, would then tend to next day headaches and upset stomachs with herbal remedies.
Lavish, delicious medieval banquets can still be created today, and require more ingenuity than cash. The raw ingredients are easily obtained and the decorations can be found in the most unusual places. Natural food, gourmet, or ethnic food shops can supply you with the unusual, hard to find spices. Be creative, have your guests dress in traditional costumes and remember...Medieval Banquets never included utensils!
The traditional staple recipe:
*Almond Milk
Ground Almonds
Water, stock, wine or other liquid
Rice flour, or corn flour
Salt
You can make thick or thin Almond Milk, whichever suits your dish. The idea is to produce a liquid or puree as smooth as possible. Almond milk can be used whenever a flavored liquid base without meat products, cow's milk, cream or eggs is needed. It can also be used as a thickener, or simply for its aroma and flavor.
First pulverize the almonds in a blender or coffee mill. Put them in a bowl and pour enough boiling liquid to make a smooth cream. Let stand for 10-15 minutes, and then press the mixture through a metal sieve.
If the mixture is not smooth enough, cream a little rice flour or corn flour with it and heat until desired consistency. Then add any extra liquid the recipe calls for and a pinch of salt.
*Maggie Black's 'The Medieval Cookbook'.
*Blankmangere
Chicken with Cumin & Cream
20 small individual pastry shells
4 Chicken breasts, skinned & boned
4 Tbsp. butter, for sautéing
1 cup chicken broth
1 cup Ale
1 cup slivered almonds
1 cup heavy cream
1 tsp. cumin seeds
1 tsp. rosemary, finely ground
1) Bake pastry-tart shells at 425 degrees until they are crisp for serving.
2) In heavy skillet, sauté chicken in butter until white on all sides.
3) Cut chicken into small cubes.
4) Add broth and simmer with chicken on low flame for 20 minutes or until tender.
5) Drain broth. Sprinkle salt on chicken, Reset oven to 400 degrees.
6) Heat Ale. Pour hot Ale over chicken. Let steep 20 minutes, drain off Ale.
7) Roast almonds for 5 minutes at 400 degrees on a well-greased cookie sheet.
8) Add cream, almonds, rosemary, and cumin to chicken. Stir thoroughly.
9) Gently heat, but do not boil, for 7 minutes.
10) Spoon into crisp, warm tart shells. Reheat for 5 minutes in warm oven before serving.
*Madeleine Pelner Cosman's, 'Fabulous Feasts'.
For further reading, check out Food Historian Maggie Black's new book, 'The Medieval Cookbook', published by Thames and Hudson . The book is filled with medieval recipes adapted for present day. 'Fabulous Feasts, Medieval Cookery and Ceremony', by Medeleine Pelner Cosner, Director of the Institute for Medieval and Renaissance Studies in New York, is another excellent source.